Throwback Thursday: When in Bali

Back into the archives again for another #tbt except I seem to have misplaced the actual tearsheets. Insert cheesy emojicon here. 

Bali was really the first time that I ventured out of the vegetarian comfort zone I had been raised in. It was the right place to do it. Read on:

When In Bali

Sea, Sun, Shopping—the “3 S’s” this island getaway is sure to have more than enough of. And who could ask for more? Certainly not the increasing throngs of surfers, beachgoers, and bargain hunters who, year after year, continue to flock here faster than you can say “Bali Holiday.”

But to do as the Balinese do, one must venture off the beaten path and discover a library of wonders far beyond this triumvirate alliteration. Read on with writer and photographer Glenn Orion as your guide to the remainder of Bali’s alphabet. 

And Then There Was Denpasar

As quickly as we came, we went. Jakarta had been a pleasure to unravel, from the rolling hillsides of Bandung to the bustling cityscape downtown. But as much as we hated to leave, we knew and eagerly anticipated the next stop—Bali. This meant taking the brief ride back to Soekarno Hatta International Airport and flying Garuda Indonesia Airlines to Ngurah Rai Int’l Airport. Enjoying some snacks during a bit of down time before the flight, our small group along with our guides from the Ministry of Culture & Tourism who would be accompanying us on this next leg, laughed as we recounted the already memorable first half of our trip.

The short flight literally flew by and before we knew it, we were all loaded-up in a spacious van and immediately whisked on our way to the first stop. Winding through, climbing up and down the coastal roads, our local guide “Wira” warned us to put away our glasses and to secure other valuables or loose accessories. We soon found out why when, arriving at the cliffside temple at Uluwatu, we stepped into what is the home of an estimated 300 wild monkeys. Even at the entrance, signs advise visitors of these furry burglars’ clever attempts at thievery. Before being allowed to enter, female guests wearing shorts or skirts were provided with wraparound skirts and the men were given sashes worn at the waist as a sign of reverence to the holy site. 

Uluwatu

We wandered through the cobbled pathways and up large stone steps to a lookout point on the easterly coastline. All the while, generations of monkeys strolled lazily among us with an air of nonchalance.  Wira said that these monkeys had been allowed to inhabit and roam in this area freely even since he was a child. The Balinese believe that monkeys are gods incarnate and although they aren’t worshipped, these primates are, for the most part, allowed to do as they please. As soon as those words left our guide’s mouth, a loud shriek followed by nervous laughter came from behind us. We spun around to see a grown monkey make off with a young woman’s sunglasses. The monkey bandits strike again!

Soon, we were all herded into the outdoor amphitheater that sits right on the cliff’s edge, hundreds of feet above the crashing waves below. With the setting sun as its backdrop, the Kecak dance performance began. The group of primarily male dancers wearing only a checkered cloth around their waists, perform the ritual to the rhythmic sounds made orally using no other instruments. The latter syllable of its name, Kecak (pronounced “chak”), is chanted throughout the ceremony. For a small fee, visitors can watch the depiction of the battle from the Ramayana epic between monkey-like Vanara and the evil King Ravana. 

I asked a companion to save my front row seat about midway through the performance so I could capture the vivid colors streaking across the setting sky. The three-tiered roof section of the temple seemed to teeter on the precipice creating a dramatic contrast between the blackness of the cliffside and the blue sea that, if not for the flickering lights of fishing boats on the horizon, looked like it and the sky had seamlessly meshed together. The quiet night sounds were interrupted by sporadic laughter coming from the amphitheater. I returned just in time to have the monkey god Vanara jump into the crowd and sit next to me!

Wira excitedly told us that we would be having dinner at a popular fresh seafood market paralleled by a line of seaside restaurants serving up delicious, five-star dishes at two-star prices. This was no occasion to cling to my vegetarian ways. And if there was ever a better time to experience a true meat-lover’s delight, it was now. With the gentle sound of waves lapping on the sandy beach serving as our four-piece string quartet, and with the moon and stars overhead as our chandelier, we began scarfing down all manner of meats, soups, and rice. I found myself knuckle-deep in Be Siap Pelalah, a boiled chicken meat dish that is then barbecued and served soaked in hot and flavorful chili sauce; and Bandeng Presto, pressure-cooked fish with an unmistakable aroma and sambal garnishing. What a night to do as the locals do.

Bali-vanting

Bright blue skies and a pleasant breeze greeted us the next morning. We had a number of stops ahead and were eager to be on our way after a hearty breakfast at the newly opened Aston Hotel. We would have the pleasure of visiting the Taman Ayun family temple in Mengwi first. Balinese for “beautiful garden,” this 17th Century historical landmark, complete with moat and bridge, continues to serve as a place of worship. Lily pads and their blooming flowers float with the clouds in reflections created by the still water.

By the time we left the spacious garden temple, we had worked up an appetite. Approaching noon, we began our ascent up Terate Bang Mountain where we would be having lunch at the Khayangan Restaurant. I noticed, as we passed by street-side stores and private homes, that none of the windows and doors had grilles, neither were the properties fenced-in. Our guide Wira said that this was because of the devout belief in karma. Locally, the phrase tatwa masi, roughly translates to “I am you, you are me,” and it is the adherence to this code that guides the Balinese moral compass.

Next, we headed north about 60km from Denpasar City towards Singaraja. As we climbed up the mountainside, the weather became noticeably cooler. Through the fog rolling in and under a light drizzle, we arrived at the Ulun Danu Bratan Temple. This Hindu temple is dedicated to the water goddess, Danu, whom the locals believe to be the source of fertility and prosperity. With four mountain ranges in each direction, the lakeside temple is the largest group of Hindu temples in East Java. When the tide is in, sections of the temple become isolated on man-made islands; definitely a must-see in Bali.

Around mid-afternoon, we strolled through a large open market to buy and snack on some local fruits and shop for souvenirs. The locals are friendly and inviting, accustomed as they are to tourists visiting the area. Further down the road is Alas Kedaton, the fruit bats and monkey forest in the middle of a Tabanan regency rice field. The temple’s maintenance and caretaking of its animals is provided on a completely voluntary basis. 

Lastly, we visited one of the most anticipated sunset spots—Tanah Lot Temple. Also known as The Temple on the Rock, Tanah Lot looks out on the Bali Sea and is one of the seven sea temples that form a chain along the southwestern coast. A large boa constrictor roams the grounds under the careful eye of its keeper and it, along with the sea snakes at the temple’s base, are believed to keep out evil spirits and intruders. The innumerable souvenir stands that line the cemented path to the sea are a last-minute stop after the sun has set. 

Innumerable, too, are the experiences to be had, sights to be seen, and foods to be tasted. Bali is just one of 17,500 reasons to visit Indonesia. And when in Bali, you, too, will speak volumes of this island paradise.

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